Friday, September 12, 2014

Polar Opposite


 
     There must have been a whole lot of drinking involved when Iceland and Greenland were originally named.  “Oh, ice.  Nice.” What’s up with all those Vikings who simply spoke a language frozen in the Land of Literal? Unfortunately, as it turns out, they were literally wrong.  Iceland is not all ice and Greenland isn’t green. Seriously. It’s Greenland that’s filled with ice.  Iceland is, well, filled with volcanos. It’s like landing on the moon with some seasonal green here and there, and a bit of ice thrown in.  It’s a country the size of Kentucky formed with 130 volcanoes.  Clearly when those Viking sots got sober they overlooked reality or they would have quickly renamed it. Maybe if they had just taken off those damn horned hats, they might have had the energy to be accurate as surely there’s much more literal and simple to go around. 

     Why, Iceland could have been named Lavaland, or Ashland, or maybe Craterville.  Even Grayrock or Treeless would be more like it.  Perhaps it’s more accurate to imagine that these drunken Vikings simply got distracted just trying to pronounce Reykjavik, and then it all quickly got lost in translation. Reykjavik is actually Reykjavíkurflugvöllur in Icelandic. Yeah. Twenty one letters but not one pronounceable or familiar syllable for those of us not trained or native. It’s embarrassing to admit but that word simply boils down in my brain as being “yada-yada-yada-yada-UMLAUT-yada.” Apparently the Vikings and I both arrogantly botch accuracy.
     Fanciful history aside, Iceland is one of the most awesome and beautiful places on earth. Perhaps 130 volcanoes, blue lagoons and all those tectonic plates have something to do with it. Or, that stunningly beautiful video they show you during their airline take-off. Why that sucker seals the deal within the first twenty minutes in the air.  Iceland Airline takes a sober, boring emergency landing video about seatbelts, oxygen masks and water slides - during a potentially horrifying crash - and makes it feel like an artistic experience or a yoga-like, meditative retreat.  It’s the most peaceful, hypnotically narrated nature-fest take-off I have ever encountered.  They might more accurately name it Eckhart Tolle Airline.
     I have flown in and out of the Reykjavik airport for layovers four times now and each has lured me in with magnetizing wonder, despite never having actually set foot on land.  This magical place is where the United States has sent astronauts to train for landing on the moon. So, in simple terms, it genuinely is almost out of this world.
     Recently, I was in the Reykjavik airport for an eight hour, overnight layover to England.  Despite arriving at almost midnight their time, the central waiting area in the terminal was at the height of busy; and busy for me with all those new things you experience when you are first in another’s world.  Theirs is very modern, and full of a lot of Nordic sweaters.  And hairy boots.  Cultural competency, daylight at night and assimilation aside, this moment was different in a new way. There seemed a deafening omission of something, and it all felt shockingly different. It actually took about an hour to even begin to realize what it was. 
     Quiet.  
     All these hundreds and hundreds of people were busy in engaging conversation, eating or drinking, talking, walking and yet it was like we were quietly in a large living room.  It was filled with clinking glasses, laughter, droning voices and children giggling in a terminal not designed linearly, with chairs attached in straight lines like in the states.  In Iceland, people are together mingling in a community circle design.  This moment seemed like the movie Love, Actually with a new geometric effect for that opening scene where they pan in on the crowd waiting for life stories to emerge. An Icelandic remake would also have very, very tall actors and actresses, with blonde, straight hair.  Oh, wait a minute.  That would be Hollywood.  Never mind.
     After taking in the quiet, I began to question why.  Oh.  OHHH.  There were no TVs anywhere in the airport.  Not one screen of news to blare reports of terrorism, weather, politics and gossip, all with ticker tape urgency.
     There was also no music playing over the speakers, no flight announcements, no neon signs and no fast food chains in this large, Iceland airport.  No sensory distractions and junk whatsoever.  The Iceland airport is filled with just people, and stores in which to shop, all located around the perimeter. Being. In the moment. And eating an inordinate amount of fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  It couldn’t be more Un-American.  
     I found this stark difference to be a welcome salve to my U.S. noise-battered and consumer-badgered soul. It seems we have become a country obsessed with providing an undercurrent of sound and sales 24/7.  In the American world there is music constantly playing or visual stimuli consistently flashing us a message everywhere we go:  In the doctor’s office, dentist chair, grocery store, liquor store, hair salon and car dealer; in our offices and on our computers, in yoga class, the locksmith, coffee shop, elevator and in every, single store and restroom in the mall.  Billboards as we drive and Music as we walk. News and advertising update us, while war, violence and terrorism depress.  We are a country now designed to sell, tell, serve and satiate the public to death.  Iceland by comparison seems alive with a promotion merely of living quietly together in peace.
     Weeks later, I landed back in the states at Logan airport in Boston.  One of the first things my senses noticed about our country was the undercurrent and barrage of sound and TV’s back in my life.  It seemed an assault on every level.  The most glaring was in the ladies room.  Directly over the stall was actually a speaker in the ceiling, and the music was so loud I wanted to cover my ears.  I could barely hear the toilets flush.  It seemed ironic when I realized the song playing as I peed was Bruce Springsteen screaming at me, “Born in the U.S.A.! Born in the U.S.A…”
     When did we decide to kill Quiet? I miss it.  In our country, quiet seems a language long ago and far way, frozen and literally not heard anymore.  You simply can’t get more accurate than that.
 
 
(Photo credit: Hvalsnes, Iceland - Pinterest)

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